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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.